Baby Gulls
When Gulls are first born they make take a day to liven up but after that they should be running around like clockwork balls of fluff. It is the running around urge that gets them into trouble. Many chicks fall off roofs where the parents build nests. Although the chicks do not stay in the nest they will explore the roof and occasionally go back to the nest area to sleep. If a chick is lively with no injuries, and you know which roof they came from, then they can be put back on the edge of the roof and they will walk back up to the top. Some roofs are too high to reach so these chicks need to come in to a rescue centre. If a chick is put back on the wrong roof they could be attacked by rival adults.
Initial care needed
The first thing to do with any baby bird is to keep them warm. It is vital that you do not try to give them food or water until they have warmed up. There is no rush with Gull chicks. Make a nest shape in a box/container out of small towels, t-shirts etc and, if really small, lay one across the top of the box too. Once they are warm they should then be livelier and ready to eat. Never give water to a baby bird. In the wild they will get all the fluids they need from their food. If you have a rescue centre nearby then do not feed the chick as it can wait until it is transferred to them. It is better to feed nothing than to give the wrong food or to feed too soon.
Baby Gulls will eat soft bits of fish or larger fish when they are bigger. Any moist cat food would also work. If the Gull does not try and eat the food then never force food down. If they do not peck at food put near their mouths, then they may need longer to warm up. Little and often is best for small chicks and no more food given until they have done a poo from the previous feed. It is important to check that the previous food has successfully gone ‘through the system’ before giving more otherwise a blockage could form. In general, the aim is to warm the chick then go slowly with any food.
Can a bigger baby survive on the ground?
This answer is an emphatic “ No”. Unlike garden birds, Gulls are not meant to leave the nest site/roof until they can fly. The parents may try to feed them on the ground but they will not be able to protect them from foxes or dogs etc. If a youngster is fully grown, then check their wing tips. When ready to fly the tips should cross at the back like an open pair of scissors. If they are close to flying then you can try taking them in at night and putting them back in the garden during the daytime (if the garden is secure). Don’t worry if there is still a bit of fluff on their head as the wings are the most important. A chick will grow feathers in order of priority ie. wings first and head feathers last.
Larger babies
Herring Gulls take 6 weeks to grow to adult size. Obviously there is a big difference between feeding a tiny chick and a 5 week old chick. The bigger babies need to calm down once they come in and prefer to be in a quiet place. The usual feeding protocol for Gulls is to place some food in front of them then back away and give them some space while they eat. We take the food away after a few seconds and never leave food with them. Any food left will probably get pooed on or covered in flies. The act of removing the food makes it more likely that they will be interested when it is brought back as it seems to stimulate the grab instinct (ie, get the food before someone else does)!
Rearing Gull chicks
Gulls have the great advantage of being able to feed themselves. Just put some fish in a bowl and they will wolf it down! We have noticed the huge disadvantage lone chicks have. It is vital that they are reared with other chicks so that they can learn to be a Gull. Any that have been on their own will be very confused at feeding time. They need to learn to rush towards food and grab it as quickly as possible. In the wild there is no time to stop and watch when food is around. By the time a slow Gull has worked out what is going on the food will have vanished. It is not necessary to be taught by an adult as they learn so much from being with other chicks. In one way our babies have an advantage over the ones that have been reared by their parents. They will be used to fighting for their food and will not be waiting to be fed. That is assuming we don’t hand feed them of course. They will also be used to hearing the food noise that Gulls make which is vital for their survival. As a general rule, food is thrown away from us so that we don’t encourage Gulls to come close to humans.
At 4 weeks approx. we will introduce shallow trays of water to encourage preening and to make sure the babies are waterproof. Pools will be given once they are waterproof; any sooner and they could drown in the water. Before release Gulls must be flying, waterproof and used to rushing for a variety of foods.
Where to release?
Most fledglings (6 weeks or more) will be released on the beach , at low tide and early in the morning. Look for adult Gulls and release where they congregate. The beach is a safe area as it is not territorial so the youngsters will not get attacked by adults. Gulls do co-operative feeding which means that they help each other find food. As soon as they see food they make a noise that attracts other Gulls. They are used to being in large flocks so the young ones soon join the group and will follow them to food sources.
